Guelaguetza Puts Family — and Oaxacan Pride — First This story...

Guelaguetza Puts Family — and Oaxacan Pride — First

This story is in celebration of #HispanicHeritageMonth, which runs through October 15 in the US.

Rojo, negro, verde, amarillo — the rainbow of traditional Oaxacan moles on the menu at Guelaguetza (@laguelaguetza) have earned the Los Angeles restaurant top praise and honors. But there are no heavily guarded secret family recipes. “The definition of guelaguetza is reciprocity — helping and giving and receiving,” says Bricia Lopez Maytorena, who owns the restaurant with her brother and two sisters. “That’s really Oaxaca. It’s one of the poorest states in Mexico. We don’t have much, but what we have, we give.” Bricia’s dad, Fernando Lopez, grew Guelaguetza from a tiny, five-table cafe in 1994 to one of the best Oaxacan restaurants in the country. “We’re all very proud of being from Oaxaca,” says Bricia. “If we can change people’s perception of a culture through food, we’ve done our job.”

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